This portion of the trip had been vaguely planned for months from back when Sam was thinking of spending an extended period bikepacking. Visiting Lars and biking through Norway seemed like a great way to start. We looked around online and found a few different routes and narrowed down to one that was the right distance for a two week trip.

At first we had been hoping to travel hut to hut, but as we looked further into it we realized that the hut infrastructure waa designed around hiking trails rather than biking trails. So we planned to bring tents which made the itinerary possible and more flexible.

The route was originally supposed to start in Vinstra but the train was booked so we started in Lillehammer instead. The route would travel south and west, meandering through the mountains until reaching Flåm–a fjord town.

Day 1

The day started with some final adjustments to our bike setups. I certainly took a lot of time figuring out how I wanted to attach all my bags. When we were still fiddling with our bikes at 9:10, I had doubts we would make the 9:34 train. But we managed to dash out the door, speed through town and quickly walk our bikes to our platform. We arrived just as the train pulled in.

During the ride Sam was glued to the window–the views as we passed through the countryside were stunning. Lars and I caught up on our reading.

Once we got to Lillehammer, we stopped at a sports store to get some last supplies, caffeinated at a coffee shop, loaded up on groceries and were off!!

The majority of the route was a long and gradual climb through a beautiful agricultural valley. Endless hay fields and pasture dotted with farm houses seemed to go on forever.

Lars waits for Tommy to catch up…

As the day wore on the clouds rolled in and the air grew chilly. We entered some woods and had more of a climb to go. Along the way we passed some cute sheep…

Shortly before looking for a place to camp we stopped to grab some more food. We found we had voracious apetites and hoped for hot food. There was not any so we gorged on snacks.

We had one last small climb to the zone where we thought to camp that night after which we scouted around for a site. We found one close to a stream and set up camp.

Tommy and Sam are tent buddies:

Day 2

The morning was chilly and a bit dewy as we made our breakfasts of instant ramen and I made my coffee. We took quite a while to pack up and get out as we were learning our pack setups.

The ride started off with a big climb which we powered up maybe a bit faster than would be sustainable, but felt satisfied when we reached the top. We were then rewarded with relatively flat ride through gorgeous meadows. We even saw a cow.

As we continued Sam stated his desire for a hot meal. Shortly after we came across a sign for kaffe for which I immediately stated my desire. We stopped and had waffles with sour cream, jam and brown cheese. I had coffee. We made a gameplan for the rest of the day, including a grocery stop and a general idea for where to camp (we would do one of the big hills today and save one for tomorrow morning).

Intense debate about groceries:

After the grocery store we had a long downhill section we got to speed down and some flat easy riding before the up.

Based on our map we aimed for an area that was uninhabited and looked to have a stream nearby. It turned out to be easy to find and there was even a little trail leading away from the road so we could be away from passing cars.

Day 3

Another dewy morning; buying a single-walled tent wasn’t necessarily a mistake but it did mean I had to be careful to wipe off the condensation if I didn’t want to get wet moving around in the morning. I was very appreciative of the sunshine which helped our stuff dry out a bit.

We shared another breakfast of ramen, packed up and headed off!

The day started with yet another climb, but nothing we couldn’t handle a few days into our trip.

After the climb we sped back down into the next valley and stopped at a creek for a quick lunch. We continued through some farmland and back up into more meadow. Our plan for the night was to stay in a hut a mile or so off the gravel road which would require some hiking with our bikes. This turned out to be pretty difficult and I was ready to give up on the hut and just camp. But Lars and Sam both insisted we continue.

The hut turned out to be well worth the hike. Not only was it a nice warm refuge, but it was in an absolutely stunning location. We did laundry, dried out our tents, enjoyed some risotto and took freezing cold bucket showers behind the cabin.

Day 4

Today I woke up sick. I hoped I would feel better as I woke up and got food and coffee in me but it quickly became clear that I had a cold or something. Spirits were a little low as the last couple days were cold and we had spent so much time fiddling with Sam’s rental equipment. But we set off, hopeful for the day.

The first two miles we returned along the hike-a-bike trail we had climbed. It was much easier going downhill.

The bag Sam got with his rental bike completely failed so we figured out a way to attach it for the day and planned on finding a replacement when we got into town.

The ride started off with a brief section of flat before climbing slowly into the clouds.

We stayed in the clouds for a mile or two and the dropped back down where we were met with views of a vast lake nestled in the valley.

I noticed on our map that there was a serviced hut about halfway along the lake and decided we would stop there for a break. I needed it.

I was feeling bad enough that I didn’t really enjoy the stop though I knew I needed the warmth and the break. The receptionist let us dry off our socks that had, in theory, been drying on the back of our bikes. They had a nice drying rack downstairs.

Still shocked by the food prices in Norway I ordered an eggy pancake and coffee, happy to get some warm food. The dish turned out to be pretty similar to a Kaiserschmarn, a dish I had really enjoyed back in the Dolomites.

Once I had eaten I started scheming ways to shorten our day and find a warm place to stay. The answer could have been the very place we were eating, but for some reason it unnerved me a little and the thought hadnt occured to me. Fortunately the next town over had several available and reasonably priced cabins–a big benefit of traveling during shoulder seasons.

Armed with a plan we headed back out into the cold and started biking again. We followed along the lake for a bit, then headed back up into the clouds…

We finally hit the top of the hill and layered up for the descent. As we set off donwhill it began to rain. It took until my legs were really starting to get soaked before I insisted we stop so I could put rain pants on.

The rest of the ride was quick and freezing cold. We arrived in town just in time to buy Sam a new bag for his bike. After that we loaded up on groceries and headed straight for the cabin.

Day 5

Rest Day

We watched Kiki’s Delivery Service.

Tommy and Emmaline in Italy

The second part of my Italian adventure was to meet up with my friend Emmaline while we were both in the Alps! We met up in Bolzano and found a cute hotel/hostel called Schwarze Katz which was right on the bus lines to all the hikes we were thinking of doing. The staff wete a quaint combination of kind and helpful but not super warm or enthusiastic. I got the impression that they had been running this place for at least a decade or two…

Hike 1: Seiser Alm Bahn

After so many days of lots of elevation, I was hoping to find a hike with more rolling hills. Fortunately Emmaline had done a lot of research and had just the hike in mind. After a few hiccups with public transit we settled on taking the expensive gondola up to an area of meadow/farmland called Seiser Alm Bahn.

We made a lovely loop through the various farms, up and down through the rolling pastures. My friend and I spend the hike catching up and taking in the views. The contrast of rolling fields in the foreground and jagged rocks in the background was absolutely stunning.

Hike 2: Seceda

This day I was up for a bit more elevation after an easier day. Just as we started the hike we met some folks from Seattle who had moved to Europe and had a summer apartment in the area. They kindly gave us some recommendations about our route (since there were many options) and we went on our way.

The hike started with a big climb through the woods and soon we emerged into alpine meadow. We were grateful for the cool air and shade as our legs burned from the ascent. After a morning of relatively peaceful hiking we joined the more popular zone of the valley.

There were several peaks and rock formations that people had come to see and photograph. There was even one path to a popular photo spot that cost a few euros to enter (!!!). We shared a moment of disbelief with a fellow hiker before skipping that trail.

The path in the upper left of this photo was the one you had to pay for…

The rest of the hike was a meandering descent through a stunning valley full of farms and huts. We took our time enjoying the different perspectives on the peaks towering above us and the valley spreading out below us.

We spotted, atop this impressive rock, a group of people getting their photo taken from below. Too wholesome…

And of course cows, living the life…

Finally, as a reward for our hard work, we stopped to get cake–our Seattle friends from earlier had raved about these cakes. They did not disappoint.

Rome

Delirious from flights, waiting for our train in Rome. It’s like 90 degrees outside

Padua

Hung out with my friend Laura while we tried to recover from jet lag before the hike. Tried and failed to avoid afternoon naps.

Alta Via

Day 1

Starting point after 5 hours of bus!

View of Lago di Briaes, traditional starting point of Alta Via 1.

In disbelief that it starts off this good.

Dusk vibes from the first rifugio. Showers were not working but there were plenty of full water bottles in the shower to use.

Day 2

A short day with very steep downhill.

First of many mountainous coffee stops of the trip.

Pony and cows!

Day 3

By far our longest day. About 16 miles, so many passes…

Loved how every corner seemed to hide a new pass or meadow or pasture unlike any we’d seen before.

We don’t quite believe we’re gonna go down from this pass

Two photos looking back at the pass we descended from.

Day 4

After such a hard day yesterday, we took today easy. Instead of the 9 mile hike into cortina, we took the cable car up to Rifugio Lagazuoi so we could explore the WWI tunnels. Yes we did rent helmets and did bonk our heads on the top of the tunnels many times.

Got some really good spinach dumplings at the rifugio. Also espresso. The views were incredible but I guess I didn’t take a photo.

The hotel was nice, though I was briefly convinced that I had lost my wallet on the bus. Spent all of dinner pausing my bank cards and figuring out where to go for bus lost and found. Got back to the hotel and found my wallet under my laundry, which I had placed on my bedside table.

WWI trench with the best view?

Day 5

The day did start with a bus from Cortina and a chairlift up to Cinque Torri. This is how they do hiking in Italy, and we’re into it.

Another day meandering up and down among towering peaks through meadow after meadow. Some cows along the way.

Cinque Torri!!

Cows!!

We started the day riiiiiight there!

This rifugio had weird vibes, but the cutest doggos

Day 6

I feel like by this day we were in a good rhythm. Tried to stay on brand and be the last people to leave because we so meticulously packed for the day.

Started with some easy down and up the steeeep up. Saw our first rifugio “served by cable” where there’s a cable car just for supplies.

The sinks were really big at the rifugio so everyone did laundry, but as clothes were drying an evening thunderstorm came through. Pretty much everyone had clothes hanging off their backpacks the next day.

Flowers were popping of the whole way. This was the first time I thought to photograph it :3

This was the first day we had a good amount of time to play guitar. Our friend Carlos sang some 70s hits with us. A lady requested John Denver so we played Country Roads. We were told later that everyone who could hear us sang along.

We ordered a Skiwasser and Bombardino from the menu since we didn’t know what they were. Our server told us it was a weird combo but we stayed the course. They did indeed not go together. Skiwasser was a raspberry flavored water. Bombardino was an egg nog, though very different than I’m used to. Bombardino apparently means “little bomb”.

Reserved for doggo

Day 7

Whîe this wasn’t going to be a long day, we did anticipate a good amount of elevation and steep at that! There were at least three good passed for us to go over. I was looking forward to another day where we’d get in at a decent hour and get to play guitar and maybe some cards.

About half way through the day, however, I realized I forgot my sleeping bag liner at the rifugio! Though they do sell liners at many rifugios, mine is particularly lightweight and not too warm. So I stashed my stuff at the next rifugio on our path, double checked that we had good weather in the forecast, and ran back to that morning’s rifugio.

I did try to be conservative in estimating how long the run would take but I definitely underestimated–forgetting that the elevation and terrain ahead of me would mean that rather than running, I would be fast hiking. I did my best to keep Sam informed of where I was but today I had some of the worst cell coverage of the trip.

In any case, I managed to get to the rifugio in time for dinner!

Cows!

These cows were right outside our rifugio so we got to hear them all night!

Day 8

We were happy to have a chiller day ahead of us this morning. I’ll admit I was growing a bit tired of all the rocks and steep ups and downs, though this is what I signed up for choosing to do an Alta Via.

Today was yet another gorgeous day with many cows and views to be had.

This specific location was not a rifugio but rather a “Malga”, which, from what I understand, is a summer mountain farm. Farmers bring their cows up in the summer, and they go back down to the lowlands for the winter.

This specific location was an “Agrotourismo” destination, which seem to be a way to keep farming tradition alive in a time when it is less relevant. Lucky for us it meant some really amazing dairy. The location was run by a family and our milk and yogurt and cheese had clearly just come from the cows.

What was even better, our trail family were the only ones there so we had the run of the place. This meant a hilarious tournament of Uno wherein ruled were made up and the winner of the round had to sing a song. Everyone was fond of my rendition of Father and Son, but when I won a second time everyone was less thrilled when I tested the limits of my vocal range to sing “Red Wine Supernova”.

Day 9

We went into this trip expecting afternoon thunderstorms most days, but managed to avoid thunderstorms except for a few evenings when we were already safely in the comfort of our rifugio. Today, however, the weather decided to be much moodier.

Today also turned out to have some of the sketchiest, most knife edge hiking of the whole trip, along with some impossibly steep descents. Unfortunately, maybe an hour ahead of us someone slipped and fell a good distance along this descent. Fortunately there was a Caribinieri officer who witnessed this happen and was able to perform CPR and call for a helicopter.

Hearing about this made for rather solemn hiking for the second half of the day. This hike was, however, stunning as we hiked in and out of thunder showers, over spectacular passes and through grassy meadows (forever my favorite). Down and down and down we hiked, so much down we never thought it would end…

One of the few animals we spotted on the trip, probably since the trail is so popular…

Arrived at the rifugio and found out showers cost 7 euros!! Decided to take a sponge bath instead…

Once that was through it was time to celebrate a birthday in our trail family. I think we re-sang happy birthday since the first time we forgot to film everything. A lively dinner was had, followed by another legendary game of uno as well as a game that involved choosing an animal sound and flipping over cards to see whose animal sound you had to try to make.

During the second round of uno I stepped outside to watch an epic thunderstorm roll through. Our friends thought it was funny that I was so interested in a thunderstorm, but maybe didn’t realize how rare they were for me.

Day 10

Our final day! We were looking forward to a short and gradual downhill. The hike turned out to be a pretty novel day as most of it was in the woods, while other days were very much exposed. After ten days of long and arduous hiking, Sam and I were both looking forward to a nice shower and some rest.

As usual we moseyed out without too much of a timeline and somehow managed to reach the bus stop right as the bus was pulling in. It was a beautiful ride and a nice time to reflect on the adventure with our fellow hikers and exchange photos.

Bye bye Alta Via!